Traditional breakfast in the conservatory with a view over our own Golgata – the 1st tee on the Old Course. We saunter over the the 1st and 18th fairway. The starter shares with us some treats from his goodie bag – a bag full of expectation. We recall stories and myths surrounding the Old Course’s 1st tee. The group ahead drive to the right and a hollow shout of “Fore!” echoes round golf’s Hall of Fame. Everyone who is anyone has stood on the 1st tee. EVERYONE – and LINKS75. A moderately strong, headwind is blowing.

The driver has been predominant off the tee this morning. LINKS75 also decides to go with the driver and hit four, nervy tee shots a comfortable distance from out-of-bounds and the starter house. We are on our way. Arms are raised triumphantly – AWESOME! A dramatic stage; a historic, real-time experience like playing at Wimbledon, or driving lap after lap at Monza.  The wind increases. Double greens create cheerfulness, fear and bewilderment. Already on the 3rd hole LINKS75′s well-balanced approach shot disappears to the benefit of a seriously focussed player on the 15th. We ask nicely and get our white gold back. On the 7th – the definition of a links plaza – we experience a whirlwind of classic links safari and pay and play. The ambassadors slice their ball over eight surprised souls on the 11th tee and land next to a further eight even more surprised souls on the 10th green. The caddie points – “I put your ball there. It lay close to the hole.” Following a lengthy traffic jam it is our turn – and a ball from behind lands in our shadow. A surprised LINKS75 soul sorts out what is going on with yet another caddie. The 9th with a tailwind leads to a putt for an eagle.  Coffee and scotch. The course turns uphill and twists around itself. On the 11th – a par 3 – some members in front get restless and shout “Fore!” and strike before the north Swedish 4-ball  has time to stand up. LINKS75 peers into the light and show they are made of the right stuff, landing our balls on the green into a strong headwind. The members give us the thumbs up. The wind increases another few notches – LINKS75 smiles and dances on. On the 13th – downwind – a drive of 300 meters. Pleasure  envelopes us as we make our way into the town’s bosom. Warmth – our thoughts fly away and suddenly we are standing in front of Hell’s Bunker – a monster  of celestial dignity made of sand.

Over-confidence and love of the ground we are standing on causes us to putt for an eagle from the double green’s far corner. One hundred meters away and five putts later we find the hole – happiness. On the 15th LINKS75 ends up on the New Course but in true links fashion manages to get back for a par. Few holes have decided so many fates as the 17th on the Old Course, few holes have created so many heroes. LINKS75 hit both over and into the hotel – lags up on the green from a steady 160 meters and saves itself out of the Road Bunker. A hole that makes one feel like one has experienced a whole championship.
Finally there is only the 18th left and we feel exactly like the immortal words from Casablanca – “Play it again Sam.”

Breakfast with a view over the 18th fairway. The flags stand perpendicular – are they stuck down with wallpaper glue. The day’s first steps take us nearly down into the brook and confirm that the wind has got its dander up. We inspect the university’s faculty, the Old Tom Morris shop and the day’s draw. The ambassadors have landed – ETA 11:00 am. We play the course from the sea in towards the land – Jubilee New and Old.
Towards Jubilee, the third championship course, from 1897, and built in honour of Queen Victoria. From the beginning it was intended as a course for women and beginners but with the help of our old friend Donald Steel was upgraded to a real challenge in 1988. We fortify our stomachs for the day’s tribulations – we are the only ones on the course. The bridge over to Dundee has been closed and a storm warning issued. The bags supports are folded in, safety lines and climbing equipment checked, all extraneous details removed.

Second green, Jubilee

An enormous hair-dryer greets as on the first tee and our stance is broader than our bodies are long. Hard balls with no fade. Short tees. A crosswind of between 18-20 m/sec on every hole. We aim 40-50 meters to the side and let the wind take the ball towards the second fairway. The bag acts as a storm-sail and we tack into the wind towards the edge of the rough on the second. A unsecured head cover disappears over the horizon. The holes pass through a wind tunnel. We struggle on towards green after green like weather-beaten Sherpas. The ground between land and sea feels like a mountain pass on Mt Everest. All of a sudden we end up in a bunker and only once we climb down do  we realise that it is in fact empty. The wind has blown all the sand away. Even putts must be made into the wind. At the turning point the sea is like a roaring beast and we putt up to the hole so that the ball is brought back by the wind. Pure pleasure. Wide grins and extremely tired links lovers. The course gives nothing and takes everything. LINKS75 shoots ridiculously crooked and long. The holes dance past – the course needs to be re-experienced. We feel lost and search for a safe haven where we can catch our breaths. Then it appears as if it were beamed down from above – Steel’s Gem – the 15th hole. What a creation.

Steel´s Gem, Jubilee

When Donald designed the course he must have had this with him from his childhood rounds in the late sunlight with a warm breeze, a scorecard full of pars, and a swing full of confidence. A hole we all have with us for the day when we too design a course. Finally we make it to the mountain peak and exhausted but happy we can begin our descent.