One hundred and twenty years ago, at the time of the development of rail travel, Old Tom designed links courses one after the other all along the Scottish coast. Nature itself was permitted to form the game’s challenges and enjoyment. Over the years these links courses have become what they are today – wind, sand, rain, the sea and thousands upon thousands of footsteps and strokes have continued to form these settings for the game of golf. The only thing not visible is the enjoyment. David McLay Kidd spent his childhood summers with his grandparents in Machrihanish and in 2006 was asked to lay out Machrihanish Dunes in the same way as Old Tom. Today it is one of the most authentic, archetypal courses you will see. What it will look like in 100 years remains to be seen. Fairways and greens follow the landscape. Bunkers have been dug out of sand dunes where the rabbits have already been at work.

In the suitably designed clubhouse cottage the locker room is of extremely modern vintage divided between men and women. The course has 5 tee placements and full of confidence we choose the white ones. The Starter tells half the history of Kintyre and the modern fairy-tale that is the incredible £300 million that has been invested in the course and nearby hotel before indicating 300 yards up a slope to the first tee. An important piece of advice – there is an arrow marked in the ground that indicates the direction of each hole.

Find your way at Machdunes

What have we in store in front of us? The 1st tee – a par 4 has a marker post, and a long, undulating fairway down into a dip. LINKS75 tees off and the white gold makes its own way inspired by nature. An approach towards another marker post and a naturally- contoured green well-hidden behind sand dunes – birdie. The course completes the treble – the missing link between Royal West Norfolk and Trump International. To play here at the end of our journey is like a summation of all our love and appreciation for the ground between the land and the sea – the pleasure is indescribable. We move on over the links landscape where there is hardly a flat surface. LINKS75 ends up in new positions with every stroke. The greens are incredibly undulating – sometimes near impossible to play as our white gold bounces and rolls unhindered, as if it was out grazing. In front of us a group from Ljunghusen are playing in traditional plus-fours. For ourselves we prefer the Johnny Miller-of the late 70s . The first nine – closest to the sea are a test of endurance and skill even though it’s totally calm. Oh to experience driving rain and a howling sea. We take on board new energy from the links gods and our refreshments before with bold steps we play though our compatriots, who retire for a quick Guinness before the last nine. We go out on a new adventure – the homeward nine plays inside the opening nine and there is more of a marshland character to some holes, but they all have the same bubbly fairways and greens creating challenges and enjoyment. Suddenly we find ourselves on the 13th tee, a 253-yard par 4 and land our balls on the green – but what a green! – parallel parked by nature between two imposing sand dunes. Unique, classic links does not begin to describe it.

13th green, Machdunes

With a birdie and a smile like the Joker in Batman, we climb up to the 14th tee – a par 3 – and a view across the sea. On the green, a photo-shoot for Visit Scotland is on-going with 20 well-behaved black sheep in a classic links grouping in the background. Fashion! Shoot! Play! – the sheep are led off the green and LINKS75 lands its white gold next to the flag just like on TV – birdie. With a repressed need for more classic links we follow our white gold and bounce onto the 18th green – a unique experience.

LINKS75 catches Calmac’s flagship to Brodick. We cross Arran’s high country to the west coast – Blackwaterfoot. Twelve legendary golf holes have been laid out at Shiskine. Since 1896 people have been enchanted by the weather and landscape that exists between the high country and the sea. We report to the pro-shop and make ourselves ready. The 1st hole – one of four par-4s – faces the sea, where parts of the left-hand side disappeared in the storm of 1991, and sets the tone. The 2nd has a characteristic burn in front of the green creating more excitement.

Shiskine, Crows Nest

However, just like at the top of a rollercoaster ride – things are really about to take off. Next is one of the links world’s most renowned holes – or more accurately eagle’s nests – the Crow’s Nest – has its green placed on a cliff’s ledge, with sighting marker. Enormous LINKS75 heart – pure joy – euphoric. A hole that really makes an impression. LINKS75 lays up for birdie but is denied by hole-pockmarked green. The 4th takes you from the eagle’s nest back down again.

Shiskine, no4

The 5th – a par 3 – is an original from 1896. On the 6th – a par 4 – facing the sea, we are reminded of the 18th at Waterville before bravely hitting out among the grassy, VW-beetle contours. The sound of the sea and the scent of kelp heighten Links75 senses to the max and are taken to an even higher level on the 7th – a blind par 3 with a wonderful signal announcing free play. The 8th – a par 4 – “Hades”. LINKS75 passes through the gates of hell and lands its white gold directly on the green and makes its putt for eagle – touché! The 9th is the 12-hole-course’s only par 5 – and what a par 5 – is a nugget in this 12-hole goldmine, with a wonderful burn and a classic uphill approach to the waiting finish. The 10th – a par 3 – takes us down towards the finishing stretch. The 11th is an extremely demanding par 3 even without wind with a gigantic dip in front of the green. The 12th, the finishing hole, is a short par 3. We gaze back down the course. Links75 delight is enormous – what an experience. We head off up the 1st again – 24 holes.

LINKS75 gets up before we have gone to bed and takes us towards Arran’s constraining coastline – The Firth of Clyde. Still half asleep we are systematically interrogated in the bar before we head out onto the course. It lies alongside the sea with the Isle of Arran as backdrop. One of the course committee’s members questions us about our playing schedule for the week before he assures us that the greens are excellent. We tee off on the 1st filled with pleasure which is quickly extinguished after visits to both burn and a shank-thicket. Shame on us for feeling remorse. Here, nothing can diminish our pleasure. The 2nd – a classic, convoluted par 4 – has a sighting marker askew and an elevated green – links delight.

Doublegreen, West Kilbride

We move on towards the course’s turning point. Out at sea we see the ferry “Calmac” heading towards Brodick – the crossing we will make tomorrow. Some members behind us are too pro-active, and need reminding of golf’s etiquette. The 10th – a par 4 – plays out towards the sea and the wonderful scent of kelp. The 11th – a short par 4 – plays uphill. The 13th – a par 4 – a slight dogleg right has a wall to the right of the green protecting the sea. The group in front wave us through and we are in pole position for birdie. Links golf of the highest class. The 14th is a short par 4 that seriously flirts with the wall on the approach – a feeling of deja vu from North Berwick.

14th, West Kilbride

The 16th has the wall to the right above the beach and the sea and protects us from the wind and we can therefore proceed with few worries. On the 17th – a neighbour of rank – a ball-collecting member joins us and gives constructive feedback when we land a couple of 5-woods on the course’s only double green. The finishing 18th takes us back to the clubhouse. A links course to get you started – with the scent of the sea.

Scotland’s laird – Loch Lomond has a bastard cousin by the sea, Dundonald. Southern Gailes has been adopted and has since 2003 been accepted into the Lomond clan. Squeezed between motorway and the brothers Gailes, Dundonald makes an insecure impression. Kyle Phillips perhaps had something else in mind when he created this modern links on classic land. The clubhouse is of the same type as that at Trumps – a modernised worker’s barracks of luxurious campervan standard. We head off to test the turf – quite OK – but what is this? The surroundings remind us that the cousin has not met its relatives for some time – improvements are a must.

Third, Dundonald

The 3rd is a really good par 5 with meandering burn along and across and should have been links75 class in the right environment, as would the 6th – a par 3 – which shows us how good things could be.

No6, Dundonald

At the 8th we hit to the right and unfortunately get the feeling of a rubbish tip. Respective holes have a good layout and the turf seems good so why not utilise these. The last nine lead us in to Western Gailes and the railway line, finally classic railway links. A number of good par 4s offer a challenge – the 13th and 16th provide good links golf of appropriate quality but still fall short in the beauty stakes.
Kyle come back and take care of your cousin by the sea!

LINKS75 has moved on to historic ground. The world’s oldest golf course according to a united committee at the Guinness Book of Records. The official diploma has pride of place in the foyer. In the car park we join up with some of the day’s combatants, 30 Englishmen versus 30 Scots in an annual match – 18 holes of galloping golf. The traditional tattoos from Great Yarmouth make themselves felt – strong forearms and power behind every stoke.

Musselburgh Links

Inside the racecourse’s white fence there are 9 holes into the sun. Between 1874 and 1889 the championship, The Open, was decided here. In the last year the legend Willie Park Jnr won here. Our thoughts drift backwards in time and place – an amazing feeling. In theoretical terms we follow a few balls after Willie Park. Suddenly, we are standing at the start box following four forearm-tattooed, Vinnie Jones-copies, with another four following us.  The 1st hole – 240 yards – elevated green and waiting bunkers – a par3! We accept our bogey without fuss and move on. We hit out wildly both forwards and backwards and seem stuck in a whirlwind of evil eyes and untamed shots. The 4th hole – Mrs Forman’s par 4 – is a detour from the racecourse’s most distant parts. The green is neighbour to The Pub which bears the same name. Next to the green there is a entrance through the wall – The Cradle of Golf – which like Lucifer tempts Mrs Forman with foaming mead and good humour.

Musselburgh Links4th green

Links love of the classic type. Worthy of an experience in itself. We are forced to hold our place in the race, and suddenly under observation we fall into the tattooed pattern without hesitation. The third curve is rounded and we enter the home stretch. In the middle of the fairway are flags and distance markers. Who can hit the longest? Tattooed forearms are tested against one another – jaws are clenched and more power applied. A few meters behind us the flags flutter – pride. Three bends completed and only the finishing stretch remains. The 9th is a dogleg par 4 with intricate bunker layout. We go for power and finish with delicacy. A day at the races.

After a world class, scrumptious breakfast we stand ready on the 1st tee. Suddenly the steam locomotive that runs along a classic railway line along one side of the course sounds its whistle. The other long side drops straight down into the North Sea. A classic cliff links course. In front of us is a big hill that holds up the 1st green. The wind is blowing 8-9 m/sec and finally someone has cut the rough. The 2nd – a par 5, 535 yards – has well-hidden bunkers and the town in the background. Joy and links atmosphere. The 4th takes us up to the top. In front of us awaits hole number 5. A masterpiece of a hole that is worth the green fee on its own. Par 4 – 465 yards – with an elevated tee, the sea 100 yards to the right below us, and the green on a plateau with the North Sea as its only friend. One of the absolute best golf holes we have played.

Signature hole, no5 at Sheringham

The 6th is a tough one-shotter over 200 yards, which today can barely be reached with a spoon. We continue up on to the plateau. The stretch of course turns back after the 8th hole. The 11th is yet another one-shotter with hills and gorse as backdrop. The 14th – par 4, 379 yards – plays blind from the tee and has expectant bunkers running diagonally in front.

9th hole, Sheringham

The finishing stretch is unexpectedly strong. From the 15th to the 18th we follow the railway track. Authentic links with good bunker placements and elephant grass which present real problems. Ahead of the final approach, with the clubhouse behind a swaying flagstick we pause and contemplate playing the 5th again, and again. Maybe 18 times, a whole round of No. 5s.

In the middle of July this Martin Hawtree-designed course, just north of Balmedie, was opened costing $1 billion   - The Trump International Scotland. Trump has proudly called the course the best in the world and its construction has been the subject of political discussion. We check in at the temporary clubhouse, stare at everything that can be bought in the name of Trump, and head to the driving range and manage at the same time to get told off for not paying for a cart. We nod in acknowledgement but refuse to add a further £5 to the £200 we have already paid. Out on the 1st tee we get the sense that something is about to happen. Numerous tee placements are dispersed within the natural surroundings of differing lengths and elevations for maximum variety – furthest back are the pro tees – offering little chance of reaching the fairway. The fairways are narrow with rough and elephant grass that swallow balls instantly. The course is long so we choose a mixture of blue and white tee settings, more than enough for hitting into a 2-club wind. The fairways are still a little soft with a lot of sand high up in the turf. The 2nd – a par 4 – has a burn right across the fairway – protected by sand dunes to the right and a sandy beach behind. The greens are large, undulating, swarthy, and have fantastic run-offs and sod-walled bunkers for protection. An approach to the green makes the sound of a bongo drum – just as it should do. The 3rd – a par 3 – is a photogenic model, made for the cover of `The World’s Most Stunning Golf Hole´, with the North Sea straight offshore, and an intensively verdant green protected by sand dunes to the right and a sandy beach behind. As if it has been removed for safety’s sake during the night and brought out again in the morning – a true masterpiece. We encounter traffic – play through – LINKS75 keeps cool and makes par. We are already physically and psychologically exhausted as the course demands the use of all one’s senses. This is extreme.

4th hole, Trump International Golf Links

The 4th is once again a par 5 with a stone-edged burn running down the entire right hand side and a cluster of bunkers in the slope up towards the green. Trumps own favourite. The 6th – a par 3 – that frolics among the sand dunes in classic links fashion. The 7th is a short par 4 that is very reachable with elevated green with steep  run-offs creating more worries than we anticipate. On the 8th we play through yet another group. A master-class in driving draws spontaneous comments. The 9th is a last links delight before we stop and fill up at the mobile watering hole. The course is incredibly demanding in terms of precision, length and strategy. Modern links golf when it is at its best. The 10th is another terrific par 5 with alternative fairways that end with a small entrance to a green fringed by 20-yards high sand dunes – a classic links cathedral.

10th green, Trump International Golf Links

We rest through the 11th and 12th in order to enjoy the 13th – a par 3.  On the way to the 14th we sense something in the air that can’t be ignored. When we get there we realise what it is – world class American links romanticism. A hole that you don’t really want to play just stand on the tee and imbibe. Exceptional does not do it justice. It’s quite simply one of the best golf holes we have ever seen. The 15th is a short par 4 that is an inviting challenge. The 16th leads into the finishing stretch and is a long par 3 with no margin for error. The 17th is a long par 4 dogleg uphill with elevated green, where a par feels like a birdie. At the 18th we climb up to the black tee and look out over the whole course with the 14th at our backs giving us the shivers. The 18th in front of us – 651 yards from the black tee – is not one hole it is an entire course.

Backtee att 18th, Trump Internaional Golf Links

They will write doctoral theses on the 18th hole, and it will be just as difficult to dissect this beast as to make par.  A finish worthy of a soon-to-be world-renowned course. We conclude our day with a Trump burger and plan our return. A course deserving of a thesis.

Like a birthday cake the Art Deco clubhouse proudly stands high up on a hill, with Gil Hanse’s creation below facing Moray Firth. In 2016 the Olympic course will be designed by Hanse in strong competition with some of the world’s best course architects. We manage to start before a number of 4-balls that stand together and stomp at the entrance with representatives from the SGF. Clouds tower up over the bridge in Inverness but the starter is confident that the RAIN won’t fall until 4pm. Already on the 1st tee we are made aware that the course consists of three attributes, broad fairways, extremely large greens and fantastic surroundings. The four first holes caress the water towards Inverenss and include playful bunker combinations, snorting elephant grass and rollercoaster greens. We choose the white tees and our driver becomes our best friend. The fairways are broader than half a football pitch and we have orientation problems as they feel never-ending.

Third green, Castle Stuart

The 4th, a signature hole with Castle Stuart in the background is heavenly. The 5th and 6th are situated on a ridge. The 8th, a 210-yard one-shotter, pumps the adrenaline before we reach the 9th. Suddenly a lost soul appears searching for a ball from the hole 25 yards below us. Halfway house – coffee, no rain and no wind. The stance and swing are calibrated – the course’s design has got under one’s skin. We start with par, birdie, par – up onto the ridge and the novice chips a spinner while Luke’s lookalike sinks from 30 yards.

11th, Castle Stuart

The course is well and truly under our skin. Drive after drive are pumped out against this defenceless opponent. We strike hard crosscourt-forehands, serve  aces  and hit passing shots. The finishing stretch is of high standard – the 16th, a short par 4 that can be defeated by a driver and a lob wedge. The 17th is a wonderfully beautiful par 3 that demands courage. We strike long 4-irons and make par. The 18th and the finish towards the birthday cake is outstanding. A putt for eagle and a simple birdie. Smiling we climb the steps up to the cake and warm up in the shower with a view over the 9th green.

It was here that the brothers Bentley, Arnold and Harry, who even managed to rob Hitler’s Germany of a medal in the Berlin Olympics in 1936, ruled in the 1930s and 40s. The course is the oldest in the area – founded in 1885.

The Clubhouse, Hesketh

We manage to tee off between two member groups on the 1st, a par 4 which successfully hides the green between two huge sand dunes. The 2nd, with elevated tee, has a low-lying fairway to a green that is also raised on a hill – wonderful. We land on top of the hill and can finish in major. On the way towards the 3rd we see a real links pearler, the 14th. After the 3rd, we play 11 flat holes typical of an ordinary Swedish public course – curtain please! Back on the 14th we need energy to once again regain our positive mood. This hole has wonderful links character – narrow drive. Hidden bunkers, elephant grass, and a hidden green in the distance.

View over 14th hole, Hesketh GC

Up on the 15th tee we realise too late that we are standing with a driver staring at a gigantic grass-covered hill with a marker post as big as a telephone pole – fantastic. We feel on top of the world again. Shall we fade the ball round, strike it over the top or gamble on a corner? We choose all these alternatives but there is only one winner. The green can only be seen from the left, with a big sand dune resting against its right cheek.  The 16th is a long par 3 that challenges but is forced to give in as two of us get there in one – par. The 17th and 18th are both par 5s running parallel but are of different character. The 17th is a little narrower, but fades to the right after 350 yards and forces you to lay up when confronted by a belt of trees. The 18th is another masterpiece. The opening to the green between sand dunes is only a yard wide. We seize our bags and take ourselves through to finish. Seven links holes at Hesketh.

With the Big One, 65 yards high, on the horizon, we stand on the 1st tee after having to glide tackle some Englishmen for the honour. “On Tee – 11:00 and 11:07.” Already during morning coffee in the bar links jargon has filled the air and hungry looks have been cast at the 9th green. These are links of the classic type. Just warming up on the 1st. However, on the 2nd we run into headwind and are forced to shoot low 3-irons. The 3rd is a par 3 with out of bounds like a tempting piece of cake in front of us, and head for the 4th tee in desperation. On the 4th the wind takes the ball all the way over to the 1st and it feels like we are beginning again. The 5th – a par 5 – yet another hole with a tailwind. In front of us Klammer takes out one of his 75 pairs of newly-bought waterproofs. Blackpool has already put his on in the bar and knocks the ball in 2 while we others desperately wrestle with the wind and goretex before we are completely tangled up. Rain!! Everything changes on the 6th – a par 5 into a headwind – as it is suddenly raining horizontally!! The 7th is a long par 4 with the Big One in view. The 8th is taken care of before we reach the course’s highlight – the breathtaking 9th – a par 3 that has been named Great Britain’s best 9th hole.

No9 at St Annes Old Links

We do what Bobby Jones did. Take the measure of the green between the sand dunes and let a soft shot land on top of the flag – touché! A sudden impulse arises to build a smaller copy on the property back home. The need for waterproof gloves becomes urgent and Tommy TwoGlove comes to the rescue. The 10th – a par 4 – with a tailwind allows us to hit long nearly up to the green, where Castro does a victory dance after sinking a birdie chip – as does LINKS75. On the 11th Members Choice suddenly finds form and yet another birdie is recorded – real links golf. The 13th par 3 has its twin the 16th par 3 at its back – an incredibly beautiful links combo. A slight parallel-adjusted tee off and we are nearly down for the count, almost out on the adjoining runway. Take your seats! We are nearly thrown overboard by sheer speed as the pace increases through 14 and 15, which run parallel with a well thought out bunker system that gather plus points. Up at the 15th green a 747 takes off a few yards away.  Now  it’s  REALLY raining. Columns of water descend. Dog is playing in stylish  pin-stripes and turns from grey to saturated-black. The 16th green is just as hard to hit as a giant tortoise.

Classic links enviroment at St Annes Old Links

Members Choice chips up and succeeds with a 9-yards mini-golf putt to make par – pure delight!! The 17th and 18th – two par 5s – run along the railway track heading for the drying room. The 18th is a par 5 with finesse, opening with a marker post and closing with a large hill before reaching the green that now resembles a waterslide. We stagger in a daze back to the clubhouse after four hours in a wonderful washing machine.