In the morning we awake at Waterville House. The evening before we had eaten freshly caught shellfish at The Smuggler’s Inn before finishing late in the Honor Bar. Outside the breakfast room hangs a photo of Tiger & Mark O’Meara. Our hostess assures us drolly that it is finer weather today than for the entire summer – 12 degrees and rain in the air. Charlie Chaplin’s statue stands in the village and Payne Stewart’s at the clubhouse. Van Morrison’s voice leads us into the last mile before the waiting links. Definitely the right mood. The starter looks towards the skies and talks about the wind before we head for the 1st tee. Rain gear is on even from the start. The mountain trek can begin. The 1st hole is straight, simple and forgiving – we are warmed up. The first rabbit emerges from its hole and looks exactly the same as the ones on all the flags. Then the course explodes. Tom Fazio takes us on one of the most hair-raising rides we have been on. The 2nd, down towards the sea, has a finishing green area that blows our minds like a young D’Artagnan. The 3rd is to some extent like a classic American links hole with stone pavers leading towards the sea, but still requires the manoeuvring of all dimensions.
Third hole, Waterville
The rain increases. The wind freshens. It hurts the face. The 4th – a par 3 – where Classic Links is only the forename, the surname is The Dunes. The 5th and 6th – a par 5 and par 3 – take us to the 7th – Teacher – a par 4 that really sets the standard. Sun. Blue sky. The wind eases off. A temporary respite for a few minutes before the 8th, 9th and 10th force us to hit powerful 3-irons into the headwind. The latter hole is a beast at 475 yards. A par 4 from the hills behind straight in amongst the sand dunes, where the labyrinth begins. The 11th – a par 5 – has a crafty driving zone and ends abruptly at a big hollow and elevated green. The ambassadors have already reached the 12th tee – a roar of delight of links75 class. Mass Hole, a par 3, is perhaps the most beautiful we have seen. A devine hole with a bloody history. Here will we be laid to rest when the final blow has been struck. Amen. The 13th with raised sails and a par 5 downwind allow us to relax with real Colgate smiles. The 14th and 15th holes are yet again two outstanding par 4s. The sun shines. The wind once again eases off. Links75- class weather. The finishing stretch feels sacred. The 16th – a 386-yard par 4 – is an uphill dogleg to the left with elevated green. On Friday the 13th, July 1974 Liam Higgins had to this point two-putted every green. the 16th was the exception. Liam aced it, making a hole-in-one and breaking the course record – 65 shots.
Liam´s Ace, Waterville
The 17th – a par 3 – is straight towards the sea and has 196 yards of elephant grass towards an elevated green, with the thundering Atlantic as its nearest neighbour. The wind increases in strength. The 18th – a finish worthy of its own book – is a 594-yard par 5 that runs along the Atlantic. Spellbound by the view from the tee and strengthened by superior powers our drives swing out over the sea before Waterville’s invisible hand places them over 300 yards away. Mr L wins 2 up. With cap in hand we let our gaze once more rest on the fairway, sea and dunes. A warming Irish Coffee helps us contemplate the after-life.
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