This is not the first time we have looked out over a graveyard on the 1st tee. The last time was at West Cornwall but then the wind was not a problem. “Don’t use the driver,” advises the starter. We manage, using a sliced 3-iron to land on the graveyard’s wall and see a LINKS75 souvenir disappear into the town. The 2nd hole has a classic sand dune entrance with a green 15 yards further ahead. The 3rd, a par 3, turns back as the wind picks up – driver! On the 5th we lose our cool – wind, wind and more wind – so we do an angry Bubba and force down a birdie. Heading towards the turn. On the 6th green we see the Atlantic spreading out below. Impressive. Then the rollercoaster begins. The 7th is a hole with two fairways and two greens and today’s placement is out towards the sea.
Our balls fly over the Atlantic before a controlled landing brings them back to dry land. The second shot requires bravery beyond the ordinary. On the 8th – a par 3 – we bump our balls the whole way from tee to the waiting green – par. The wind assumes completely new proportions. Is it playable? People were laughing in the bar when we walked out, now we know why. The fact that we folded in the legs of our bag-stands already at reception has proven to be a lucky move. After the 9th we are offered for change’s sake bacon & egg. The 11th is absolutely one of the most daring holes we have played. The sea is with us all the way to the right and the wind forces us to keep the balls straight out at sea so as to be swept back onto the course. The fairway is narrow, short and plateaued, first down then up towards a green behind a sand dune to the right.
To get the ball to the green in two feels pure utopia – like trying to carry out a heart operation with a hacksaw. Do we have the right instrument? Muscle Back – check; low hands – check; hard balls – check. How in hell’s name can you do this? We lean into the wind and enjoy the salt spray in our nostrils – wonderful. The 12th, a 200-yard par 3 is straight uphill and the ambassadors start making themselves heard.
14th – par 3 and 15th – par 3. We try to breathe out. Oh no! Once again 200 yards with only elephant grass ahead. Mr J wins 4 and 3. The 16th is a par 5, dogleg left. We make a sharp turn and find trouble in the thick grass, and a black piste to the right of the green. We free-climb diagonally across and meet up with an alpine Ballesteros. The 17th is straight ahead into the roaring Atlantic and swing left to a green that lies behind a never-ending sand dune. The 18th is up towards the clubhouse with James Bond in sight and we realise just how magically beautiful everything is. The wind vs LINKS75 – 1 up.